Tea Shops are ubiquitous in Myanmar on almost every corner of the street like roadside tea shops, standalone stalls, and outlets housed in concrete structures. Teashop settings are similar in every place of urban and rural areas with the usual menu of tea depending on the sugar and milk ingredients level; Cho Saint (Over sweet), Pote Man (Normal), and Pwet Saint (Low sweet), small tables and chairs, green tea kettle for free and tiny cups, tissue box instead of former handkerchief, and plates of pastries. In tea shops, the aroma of tea and the greasy scent of fried or cooked dishes waft through the air, tables are crowded, the combination of conversation and music or television program are loud mixed with the clatter of crockery and people are bustling by coming in and coming out and young waiters carrying plates of food and trays of tea. There are no rules to object to customers sitting for hours or sipping tea. Therefore, tea shops play a significant role in Myanmar society, fostering communal life.
However, it is the stereotypical view for Myanmar women to sit alone or with a group in the teashop, full of men, cigarette smoke, and football match news. Thanks to my father who always brought his little daughter; me to the teashop every morning. This tea shop was not too big, situated in the corner of the street and the main road headed to the market. However, it was well-known in my hometown for its good taste of tea and delicious snacks. So, it was more crowded and buzzing in the morning with locals having breakfast and reading morning newspapers, folks buying tea and snack parcels on the return market, and trishaw drivers waiting for customers by drinking tea. As a child, the whole cup of tea was too much for me, so my father split the tea with me, giving me half with a saucer. I enjoyed soaking Ee Kyar Kway; Chinese donut sticks soaking in the tea and ate it. I was also fond of savoring Samosa; an Indian fried snack with chili sauce and sugar and egg Palata; Burmese flatbread. So, my taste for drinking tea and sitting in tea shops has been rooted since my childhood.
During college semester breaks, my boyfriend and I always made plans to meet at a tea shop in my hometown for a conversation. It was located in the street among the households and not famous for its tea and snacks of lower quality. It was, however, a pleasant place full of trees in the yard and provided internet connectivity which was attractive to more youths playing mobile games and using the internet. But for us non-gamers, it was more convenient as a couple in Myanmar rural society. We discussed books, news updates, and information circulating about everything while having two cups of Pote Man tea and tea salad. Tea salad is also a significant Myanmar traditional food which tastes a spicy mixture of green tea leaves, cabbage, tomato, ginger, and peas. Even though it was buzzing with the voices of teenagers playing games, ordering food, and the sound of cooking, the environment was very comfortable for us to have private conversations. We also started our idea there to establish a local youth organization in our hometown. After a few years, the owner changed the place that became too far for us to reach and after that, we lost our space in town.
During my university years, I spent most of my free time hanging out at a tea shop with my friends. They were from different universities, and we would gather at the tea shop located downtown, near Sule Pagoda and the central railway station. It was easy to reach from everywhere with buses or trains. We met there every evening after classes and on weekends. This tea shop was a roadside one behind the Central Hall. The tea had a special taste and we could also order a variety of curries, noodle dishes, and the delicious Mohinga; a fish and rice noodle soup. As was customary, the tables were always crowded, music and television programs played loudly, conversations were even louder, and tea boys would bring trays of sweets and pastries to the tables. Our group always felt more comfortable sitting at the outdoor tables, creating the perfect environment for discussions on politics, art, and education. At this teashop, we occasionally had the opportunity to meet famous artists, poets, and writers. It was also conveniently located near the book stalls of Pan Soe Dan, making it easy for us to go book shopping after our tea time. We cherished these moments at the teashop before the outbreak of Covid.
Everything has changed a lot recently. It has been challenging for me to revisit these moments in teashops with my family during adulthood and also with friends during the military coup. My dad is not as healthy as he used to be, my boyfriend was detained as a political prisoner (but has since been released), and some friends are still in the jungle as part of the people defense force, working to reveal the authoritarian regime. Despite the rapidly changing situation in the country, the tea shop culture remains everywhere a source of relaxation, refreshment, tradition, and pleasure for the people in Myanmar.
